For you DIY tuners; what areas do you recommend a beginner debur and lube (as well as types of lube)? I just started and pretty much did a debur in the obvious areas:

Deburring:


Cocking Slot
Cocking Lever Shoe
All Compression Chamber Slots (especially sharp edges that may catch and tear the piston seal when re-inserting)
Inside of Compression Chamber (cross hatching)
Piston Body and Rear
All Piston Slots
Beartrap Lever (all rough areas)


Lubing:


Behind Piston Seal (moly)
Entire Tophat (moly)
Entire Forward area of Guide (moly)
Trigger Assembly Contact Points (moly)
Mainspring (heavy tar)
Hinge Thrust Washers and Pivot Areas (moly)
Beartrap Lever (clear tar)
Friction/Cocking Shoe (square U-shaped piece of plastic)
Plastic Roller


Miscellaneous Work:


Piston Buttoning
Custom Tophat and Guide (or for a temporary fix use polyolefin heat shrink tubing on the stock tophat rod and guide rod for a snug spring fit)


I'm not sure if I got everything and/or did them all correctly. What do you guys think?

Sounds good to me except I would use Maccaris clear tar on the pivot points along with cocking lever hinge points ,also if it is like a Gamo there is a friction shoe and a roller that gets clear tar.Also I lube the bear trap mechanism with the clear tar.I pretty much use the clear tar any were you might see or touch when every thing is back together. And remember I am no professional just a hobbyist.To each there own.:thumb:

Ah yes, I forgot about the beartrap lever. I'm adding that to the list. I gotta order some clear tar as well. Thanks for the pointers...

I have used the heat shrink tubing and it works great just does not last more than a few shots then it comes off . I have given this some thought and bought some of that Plasti Dip, which is a multi purpose rubber coating. I thought about dipping the rear guide and the top hat in this stuff which I think will last a little longer than the shrink tubing. I also thought about dipping the main spring in it also.Or on my Dianas, coating the inside of the rear guide with it . I have thought about a lot of uses for this stuff just have never done any of them.

I haven't tried the heat shrink tubing yet, but have read that some have had success with them not coming off. I wonder what else can be done to ensure they stay on? I know a good degreasing is a definite must. Maybe some kind of adhesive under it?

Keep us posted if you do decide to try the plastidip - I'm curious on how well that'll hold up.

i used liquid electrical tape on the tophat of the recon, it's been 500 rounds since i did it.
it's coming apart tonight to see how it held up.

I'm looking forward to the update Craig - pics will be great too!

my daughter was shooting it Monday, it didn't sound promising.
i will post my findings.
i want to epoxy the plastic spring guide tonight to get it a little more solid.

I read on the Yellow about someone 'plastic dipping' their mainspring. I just haven't seen any results. I imagine it would start flaking off after several rounds.

On the can I have it says:
Flexible wont crack,chip or become brittle
Insulates electrical shock,vibration,heat,deadens sound
Durable resists water,chemicals,impact ,and abrasion
I really want to try on spring guides and maybe just a few coils of the spring right in the middle . I think if the hole spring is done it will slow every thing down to much.
I may even try this stuff on the out side of the receiver between it and the stock.
I don't know what do you guys think

What's the worst that could happen? You have to disassemble the gun and spend 3 hours scraping that stuff off with a razor blade? I've been half tempted to try some myself, but I end up turning out a guide and that quiets things down enough for me. You have to let us know how it works out for you. This may be the next greatest thing.

dont do it, i knew it was bad when she was shooting it the other day.

Looks like it kinked up enough to where it just tore. I have read about others who've used polyolefin heat shrink tubing with success - I'd love to see a photo of one that's been used for a couple hundred if not thousands of rounds. I may order some to test on this Storm I have. Thanks for the info and pics craig...

there is just no subsitute for a proper fitting tophat/spring/guide combo.
it is something you must have.

I agree Craig. I've put a thousand rounds through my CFX since building a delrin guide and it's still just as snug as it was when I installed it.

J, the heat shrink will work, short term. I've used it before and found it worked best to cut it about 1/4" short, after heating. The last 1/4" will rip off in just a few shot's. The best thing to do, is bring it over and I'll make you a delrin guide to fit the spring.

I have a feeling I'm going to be goin' over to place a lot... :)

Anytime you feel like taken a ride, I'm 3mi south of I-10, exit 35. Probably 30-45min from you.

I'd say it's worth the trip. But that's just me. I wish I had some airgun buds out in these parts. Poor, Poor, me..

Does anybody know of a link etc that identifies the parts of an airgun? Most everything is self explanatory, but I would like to see something like that.

I haven't seen one but can definitely make one. Do you mean something to where if someone clicks on a part it'll tell them what the part is called?

Even something as simple as letters by the part, then a catalog to the side telling the name

ie:
a) cocking slot
b) main spring
c) top hat
d) thing-a-majig
e) do-hicky

Anyone have a rifle that's in pieces they can lay out and take a photo of? I can create an image map/legend for all the parts, similar to how I have it in this tutorial.

the TAC1 is down, i can try .

how's this.

How's this look guys? If it's good to go I'll put it in a new thread and make it a sticky...

Looks good you computer whiz!

you genius you!

I was right in my assumption of the part names I just wanted to see it labeled by one of you gurus.
Thank you

Now if I can just figure out what all of you are talking about when I read where you say "I saw it on the yellow", I will be set.

Here you go guys: http://www.airgunone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245

It's also stickied in the shop forums...

Yellow Forum

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/

http://www.arld1.com/

I haven't tried the heat shrink tubing yet, but have read that some have had success with them not coming off. I wonder what else can be done to ensure they stay on? I know a good degreasing is a definite must. Maybe some kind of adhesive under it?

Keep us posted if you do decide to try the plastidip - I'm curious on how well that'll hold up.


you can get it pre glued...glue melts as it is heated...
its for wire in damp/wet areas..

Or file/cut small nicks in the guide so it shrinks into them..


pete

I don't put anything but a thin film of 10wt (3 in 1) oil on an anti-bear trap lever & its wear points. I don't want it to get gummy or sticky and hang a bit when I might need it most.