Ok it sure is quiet in here this Sunday evening, so let me try and take advantage of that. As most of you can probably tell by now if I want to know how to do something I'll ask a question or two; so I am pretty set on the fundamentals of a debur by now. I am very sure it is not moving closer to a fire to get warmer and realize it has to do with smoothing metal.

I guess what this is going turn into is all the things I have been wondering about since I have learned what I have learned here and over there (In that other place where you have to be very careful what you say for fear of being chastised).

I have learned more here from Craig and Jon in a few days than I learned over there in 2 months, thanks you two.

What is the best tool to use in a de bur? I presume a small grinding wheel in a dremel, and there is not really much to it I guess other than the cocking slot. It seems that you wouldn't want to do much grinding around the area where the trigger block fits in for fear of affecting the way the trigger fits in it's slot...correct? What else? I know some smooth the seer but I don't think i want to do that since I have no complaints at all with the trigger or the way it locks up.

Now for honing the cylinder, I know you want to hone or polish with a brake hone but I remember reading somewhere there being controversy there as well.

And if you do use a brake hone do you have to be careful to stay away from the cocking slot or can you run it across the area where the slot is, it seems like the hone would catch or hang up as it hits the slot.

I just realized a few minutes ago nobody checked the mail Saturday so i just went out there and lo and behold sitting in my mailbox since Saturday about noon until a few minutes ago was.......my tar, clear moly and apex seal for the Recon, so I could've been doing that and maybe all done by now if I only knew.

well thanks for the kind words, that's why we are here so one can get the simple info needed to do what needs to be done.

a dremel helps for deburing, use what you have or what works.
when you debur you are just breaking the sharp edges that's it, don't change any angles.
when you are polishing you are removing high/rough spots, again don't change the angles.

when honing use 400 grit stones on your brake cylinder hone, and do stay away from the cocking slot to avoid injury or breakage of you hone.

as far as your trigger, use a gritty toothpaste or fine valve lapping compound/motor oil mixture and coat all the parts in the trigger block assemble it, then go shoot 25 or 50 rounds then take it apart and clean the crap out on the trigger block lube it put it back together see how she does.
you may need to repeat this step a time or two.

With polishing and deburring, I found these to be helpful:

http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/dremel-polish-abrasive-other

I had ordered a bunch of the round and cylinder ones in the past for polishing up gun parts and found they worked pretty good for airguns as well. They wear quick, but aren't expensive and work great in my opinion. I've used the really fine ones as well for barrel polishing once I'm done crowning (the bullet shaped ones).

I have yet to try abrasive compounds in the trigger area as craig mentions, but I may give that a shot next time. I'll probably use this stuff since I still have a container of it from when I was fitting some gun slides:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1137&title=LAPPING%20COMPOUNDS

I believe it's the same stuff you can get at an auto parts store for exhaust system or something. I'm sure if you ask for lapping compound or abrasive paste someone there may know what you're talking about.

I use a file to debur the cocking slot and all other stamped areas, only takes a couple of strokes. If it's real bad I'll go back over it with a dremel and small stone. If you go over it with a file first the stones will last longer. For the tube in the area of the cocking slot, a 3/8" hardwood dowel with a piece of 220-400gt wet/dry sandpaper works great.

Great information guys, thanks. I should be able to make some good improvements and get er put back together this evening, I am mostly done with the exception of honing.

Since I only have this one to tinker with that really needs anything, I'll probably put it back together, try it then take back down and try the spacer deal. Then tear it down again and put the tophat in after I get it, and see if I can detect any differences.
Thanks again, Todd

I think an assortment of jewelers files are indespensible. I have two sets. All shapes from fine to coarse. Also my Foredom with a slew of different stones. MSC has some flap wheels that I need to try. They have 1/2- 1 inch that I think would work for internal chamber cleaning.

If I knew where I put all my stuff I would have more available..

I'd have to agree with everyone here. I use jeweler's or 'needle files' to break the edges of the cocking slot and the compression tube. Then I take a piece of 320 grit paper and wrap it around the file and 'polish' the edges so when I replace a seal, it will glide past the slots and not do any damage. To really take the roughness out of the rifle, I would recommend a proper fitted delrin or tivar guide and proper fitted tophat. I've noticed that the crosman sears seem to be of less quality than the gamo's and seem to have more stamping sprue marks and pits. If you want to take the chance, an Arkansas fine whet stone will clean up these imperfections nicely. Remember not to change any angles or go too deep. They don't necessarily need to have a mirror finish on them either. The fine scratches will help to hold lubricant and keep things slick as snot. Good luck. Oh yeah, Spring tar and moly go a long way. A little dab will do ya on both.

Well I got the Recon back together and it's just as twangy as ever so into it I go again, I'll try the spacer/tophat this time.

Oh by the way does anybody happen to have an extra "e"clip laying around:confused:, Jon maybe you have one you could throw in the tophat package?? I had one just up and walk away. Did you know you can tear apart an old CD player and there is no such part in there anywhere? I wonder if there's one in an old computer..........

i'm sure i have one if Jon doesn't.

Yep, I have a few extras I'll include with the tophat. It should be in the mail before the week ends (around thursday)...

Appreciate ya

a well stocked Ace Hardware is the airdumber's best friend (e-clips, rubber breech orings, washers, hardware, etc etc)