What do ya'll think, are scope turrets a worthwhile addition to a pellet gun?

Maybe my ignorance, but what scope doesn't have a turret?

No, all scopes have windage and elevation adjustment knobs (i don't think thats the proper name, just what i'v always heard them called). Turrets attach to the knobs so you can make adjustments without taking the cap off the knob. Advantage = speed.

http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/outdoor-activities/hunting/traditional-methods/rifle-scope1.htm

http://www.700rifle.com/scope_adjustments.php

Just some material to clarify what i'm saying. The second one is for the pic in the link.

I have them and I dont really use them. I just like being able to make an adjustment faster if I wanted to. Its really good if you want to rezero to a new pellet quickly. Plus they look cool on the scope.

As long as you don't bump/rub..when carrying or handling AG on the turret to change POA. Some I have one that you pull it up to make adjustment then lock it by pushing down. I have 2 that don't have this feature and sometimes I carry it off the scope I get it rotated and throw off my zero. Get one that locks if without caps.

I like them for convenience, but I agree that they are not appropriate for all shooting situations. The BSA scope on my Slavia 631 has them and covers, which is nice.

You can get target knob replacements for some scopes, but not all - like here:
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=SQ046002
http://ateam.100free.com/ateamh/A_Team_Flier_Technical_Info.htm

Here's a guy that made his own out of Radio Shack parts:
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Scope-Turret-Bullet-Drop-Compensator/

I did the same on my Marksman 2004/Beeman P17, but using "T" nuts, a 1/4" bolt, and turned-down Radio Shack knobs. The only problem with the "screwdriver tip" adaptation is that the adjusting screw moves in and out. Too far in and it loses engagement with the "screwdriver tip;" too far out and it tightens up. You have to cut the "screwdriver tip" so it's midway in the slot at your normal point of zero.

On my G1 I completely disassembled the turret and soldered the shafts to the adjusting screws. I've got a 1377 project going where I went with a smaller knob on the azimuth screw (because I had a junk cap that would fit). On the elevation screw I went in the opposite direction, using two knobs and a piece of PVC pipe to make the knob big enough to take readable elevation calibrations.