Hi,had a chance to pick up a Storm XT, unfired, from a guy I work with.The gun broke the "no guns" home rule,so I got it cheap.Any thought's on this gun?Potential?Idea's please................Robin

mine shoots a beeman fts 9.20gr at 860fps.
if it has a twang try tightening the stock screws a bit.
the trigger will get better after several shots, polishing helps to.
this gun easily has the potential to hit 15 ftlbs with very little work if not there already.

A lube tune helps a lot too. Shooter her a few hundred rounds and if things aren't looking good bring her here for a lube tune or call Mike for a full tune and she'll be a nice shooter. I did some work on my storm that I left at Mike's and he's been messing with that one...

The Storm has the same power plant as the Quest,G1 and a few others. They can be made into some nice shooters, fairly easily.

I've been shooting it today and will again on Mon.,not too bad so far.A very little twang and a suckey trigger are the only bad points so far.A good take to the woods gun and not fear scratching the stock.Let me get a few more through it and you can show me a lube tune Jon.Thanks guys for the insights.

Yeah it should be fun Robin. If you don't have one already, order an Apex seal because chances and good that the stock seal on that one may already be a bit buggered from factory insertion. I just used my last seal for my big cat and need to order more as well. A full debur, couple of thrust washers and lube job will tame down the recoil and noise considerably.

Yeah it should be fun Robin. If you don't have one already, order an Apex seal because chances and good that the stock seal on that one may already be a bit buggered from factory insertion. I just used my last seal for my big cat and need to order more as well. A full debur, couple of thrust washers and lube job will tame down the recoil and noise considerably.

Ok, I got the apex seal and lube trio coming for my Crosman(s), and now I hear "thrust washers" what do these do? take up slack in the tube? make the spring compress more? maybe?:confused:

Sometimes they're used for both spacing and as a bearing so to speak in between the spring and other surfaces, so the spring rotates smoothly. Most of the time it's for the latter. It makes it smoother to cock and you don't feel any grinding or rubbing of the springs ends since they're able to rotate freely. I have a few bags of washers I picked up from a local hardware store with OD's that fit inside most pistons. I'll then use a dremel to open up the ID's to fit either the tophat stem or rear guide stem (or both).

Sometimes they're used for both spacing and as a bearing so to speak in between the spring and other surfaces, so the spring rotates smoothly. Most of the time it's for the latter. It makes it smoother to cock and you don't feel any grinding or rubbing of the springs ends since they're able to rotate freely. I have a few bags of washers I picked up from a local hardware store with OD's that fit inside most pistons. I'll then use a dremel to open up the ID's to fit either the tophat stem or rear guide stem (or both).

ok that makes sense... and I'm sure more things will clear-up when I open it up for the first time!

Here's a photo of one on a stock gamo tophat and spring. All it is is a washer. In stock form the spring sits right up against the tophat and when you cock the gun, you can actually feel the spring turning and grinding against the metal a bit (or entire tophat turning against the bottom of the piston). Doing a debur of the spring's ends and adding a washer helps it rotate freely. The crosman tophats aren't as big as the gamo ones...

Here's a photo of one on a stock gamo tophat and spring. All it is is a washer. In stock form the spring sits right up against the tophat and when you cock the gun, you can actually feel the spring turning and grinding against the metal a bit (or entire tophat turning against the bottom of the piston). Doing a debur of the spring's ends and adding a washer helps it rotate freely. The crosman tophats aren't as big as the gamo ones...

A picture is indeed worth a thousand words! I guess you could debur/polish the inside of the spring where it slips over the tophat, too.

Thanks again

What rifle is the Storm XT a clone of?I think I have the grinding you mentionwhen I close the barrel to shoot.Shoots good, though....................Robin

What rifle is the Storm XT a clone of?I think I have the grinding you mentionwhen I close the barrel to shoot.Shoots good, though....................Robin

Robin,

I think 1000fps Gamos and Crosmans are all pretty close... I'm sure Craig or someone can qualify further. But the bigger question of the tophat and spring having friction that can be eased with polishing probably holds true for most if not all springers...

The grinding you feel when closing the barrel is most likely the cocking shoe in the compression slot. A debur of the slot and shoe normally fixes that. It can also be that and/or the beartrap lever...

Jon,where do I order the Apex seal from?Anything else needed for the lube tune/de-burr?

Seal:

http://www.airguns.citymax.com/catalog/item/251485/43077.htm

I have all the lubes and stuff. Since we're only doing a lube tune we can get away using your stock spring, but if you plan on getting a full tune done later down the line one of these are good to have:

http://www.airguns.citymax.com/catalog/item/251488/5414946.htm

Jon,
Is this spring stronger/better (upgrade) than the factory spring? or a good replacement for a worn out factory spring... In other words, if doing an initial tune/lube, do you get much bang for the buck, or should I wait until things start wearing out?

If your stock spring is still good, I'd say stick with it. It's a pretty good spring. If it's broken or badly canted though, go with the E3650. Craig or Mike should be able to elaborate more on the E3650 since they've both used them extensively...

The E3650 much better than stock spring. However in the StormXT it will be a few thousandths large, for the rear guide. I would just use the Fac spring until it broke, then upgrade.

Hubster:
I don't recommend polishing or deburring the inside of any spring, just a little polishing on the ends. You could remove some metal and create a weak spot and end up with a busted spring. In other words modify the top hat not the spring. In fact Jim warns against any more than a light touch up on the ends of his springs.

Ray