i made all the mods for Brian's G1 then 'shook the box" and slammed it together...wouldnt cock..
took it apart 6 times before i found the problem. the second stage spring guide was .015 to long..soooo
the piston tail was hitting it and causin the "stop" right before the sear engagement clicked.i built a rig/gig
from a stock i had layin round so i could cock and look at the action travel.surenuff...i saw the problem by actually being able to look and see what was going on in the travel.
point being!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! not only is DIA critical so is length...as a rule length is measured like...+ - .015.
BUT some times its very critical...
lesson learned..the hard way.

reading back .... it may not make sense to some. to make it plain...the damn piston end was hitting a spring guide shoulder before the sear could lock down.

When you made me a top hat using my numbers the same thing happened, it drove me nuts for a day or 2 till I cut off about .25" from the top hat spring tail on the Whisper, solved the problem. Thinking back I should have said something about it, but they were my numbers used so it was my fault. Brian

reverse engineering can get quite slippery.some times KY jelly is needed.:)

I've done that before. I know exactly what you're talking about. Ya just keep pulling the barrel back and nothing. BTW, If you want to dump about 100fps, you can machine back the first 'step' in the spring guide to the same dia as the i.d. of the spring. I did it to my Quest to settle it down a bit. Takes some of the pre load off the spring. 850 is what I'm getting now and it's much milder to shoot.