Airgun Lube Tuning and Deburring

[Jon]

For you DIY tuners; what areas do you recommend a beginner debur and lube (as well as types of lube)? I just started and pretty much did a debur in the obvious areas:

Deburring:

• Cocking Slot
• Cocking Lever Shoe
• All Compression Chamber Slots (especially sharp edges that may catch and tear the piston seal when re-inserting)
• Inside of Compression Chamber (cross hatching)
• Piston Body and Rear
• All Piston Slots
• Beartrap Lever (all rough areas)

Lubing:

• Behind Piston Seal (moly)
• Entire Tophat (moly)
• Entire Forward area of Guide (moly)
• Trigger Assembly Contact Points (moly)
• Mainspring (heavy tar)
• Hinge Thrust Washers and Pivot Areas (moly)
• Beartrap Lever (clear tar)
• Friction/Cocking Shoe (square U-shaped piece of plastic)
• Plastic Roller

Miscellaneous Work:

• Piston Buttoning
• Custom Tophat and Guide (or for a temporary fix use polyolefin heat shrink tubing on the stock tophat rod and guide rod for a snug spring fit)

I'm not sure if I got everything and/or did them all correctly. What do you guys think?

[njphil]

Sounds good to me except I would use Maccaris clear tar on the pivot points along with cocking lever hinge points ,also if it is like a Gamo there is a friction shoe and a roller that gets clear tar.Also I lube the bear trap mechanism with the clear tar.I pretty much use the clear tar any were you might see or touch when every thing is back together. And remember I am no professional just a hobbyist.To each there own.

[Jon]

Ah yes, I forgot about the beartrap lever. I'm adding that to the list. I gotta order some clear tar as well. Thanks for the pointers...

[njphil]

I have used the heat shrink tubing and it works great just does not last more than a few shots then it comes off . I have given this some thought and bought some of that Plasti Dip, which is a multi purpose rubber coating. I thought about dipping the rear guide and the top hat in this stuff which I think will last a little longer than the shrink tubing. I also thought about dipping the main spring in it also.Or on my Dianas, coating the inside of the rear guide with it . I have thought about a lot of uses for this stuff just have never done any of them.

[Jon]

I haven't tried the heat shrink tubing yet, but have read that some have had success with them not coming off. I wonder what else can be done to ensure they stay on? I know a good degreasing is a definite must. Maybe some kind of adhesive under it?

Keep us posted if you do decide to try the plastidip - I'm curious on how well that'll hold up.

[craigfperry]

i used liquid electrical tape on the tophat of the recon, it's been 500 rounds since i did it.
it's coming apart tonight to see how it held up.

[Jon]

I'm looking forward to the update Craig - pics will be great too!

[craigfperry]

my daughter was shooting it Monday, it didn't sound promising.
i will post my findings.
i want to epoxy the plastic spring guide tonight to get it a little more solid.

[RCnMo]

I read on the Yellow about someone 'plastic dipping' their mainspring. I just haven't seen any results. I imagine it would start flaking off after several rounds.

[njphil]

On the can I have it says:
Flexible wont crack,chip or become brittle
Insulates electrical shock,vibration,heat,deadens sound
Durable resists water,chemicals,impact ,and abrasion
I really want to try on spring guides and maybe just a few coils of the spring right in the middle . I think if the hole spring is done it will slow every thing down to much.
I may even try this stuff on the out side of the receiver between it and the stock.
I don't know what do you guys think