Lubing is tricky because you don't want ANY volatile ie. combustible oils in your compressions chamber or barrel. These fluids can and most likely ignite when you fire the rifle. When they detonate, serious damage can be done to the seal, spring and possibly yourself. If you plan on a full teardown, just dab a bit of moly (70% concentration or higher) just behind the seal and on the tail of the piston. The spring should get a few finger wipes of heavy tar and the hinge pin or pivot bolt should get lubed as well. Some use clear tar on this, I mix a bit of clear tar with moly. The trigger group can get non detergent 30w and a light smear of moly on the mating surfaces. Some people don't use moly on the sear because once it is lapped into the steel, it acts kind of like micro ball bearings and can make the surface too slick, causing the sear to tend to disengage. I have only seen this once and it was on a B30 when I was trying to bring the trigger down to the last bit of crispness. Once the first stage was pulled, you had to fire the rifle within about 20 seconds or it was going to go off on it's own. Once I removed the moly, it was fine. If you don't plan on doing a tear down, I would mix about 1part moly to about 5 parts 30w non detergent oil in a small bottle, shake the heck out of it and use it very sparingly on the pivoting areas of the gun and trigger. I wouldn't recommend lubing the spring area with anything but clear or heavy (black) tar. You can get a complete lube kit from James Maccari for about $20 and it's enough moly, clear tar, and heavy tar for about 50 or more rifles. Well worth it. I don't have his website handy, but you can google Maccari and it'll be one of the first ones to pop up. Hope this helps.
CFX .177, B26 .177 with semi tyro stock,RWS 34 Panther .177, Quest(gave it away) .177, B30 .177,B40 .177, TF89 .22, 1377 with homemade breech and flat top piston, QB 78 .177, P17 with piston mod. B3 .177, B2 .177, Splash Tuned G1 .177